Drill Doctor 750X 3/32-Inch to 3/4-Inch Drill Automatic Bit Sharpener The Drill Doctor DD750X is a professional-level drill bit sharpener that is ideal for sharpening a full range of bits, including split points and the 135deg bits used in drilling hardened metals. Sharpens split-point bits and creates split-points from standard bits. Includes adapter for use with 3/4in. bits. U.S.A.
Customer Review: It’s a little iffy
Ok when I first got the thing is was heavy and I saw metal parts I’m thinking hmmm ok might be alright. Now I do own the new 350X (vary nice!!!). But I thought what the heck and bought the top one too. Well there are a few temperaments I would like to share. I like the metal teeth that grip the bits. Seems they wont deform like the 350x could. Also that this one will do up to without another chuck. What I don’t like is the way it aligns them, it seems those gripping jaws are too close the tip of the bit (see below why that’s bad). The MTO (material take off) is loose like others have said that’s a flaw… could probly accomplish the same thing with a feeler gauge. Also the 500x WILL do a custom angle (besides 118 and 135) the set screw will not screw all the way back in is all. I know this as I took one out of the box in the store. The only deference I saw about the 500x was it dose not have MTO and the chuck that dose up to (that`s it). Over all the chuck holder assembly seems excessively loose like they didn’t work with vary close tolerances when they made it

118 degree (avg all purpose bit)
First off the better the bit the better the sharpen, I’ve sharpened many deferent quality bits in the 350x and this one. The more precise and “normal” the bit is made the better it will sharpen it. What I mean it I don’t think these sharpeners are made to sharpen all the bits we are finding out there these days. The flute girding on some bits are for lack of a better term, “egg” shaped or “arched”. I’ve found that unless your doing the normal every day 118 degree bit your might have to do some finagling. The first thing I did was sharpening a bit to test it (at this point I’ve read the instructions and watched the dvd so as not to make the same mistake with the 350x). Did just fine, just like the 350x but I don’t like that the whole assembly wants to flex and the chuck was looser then the 350x. Seemed to do fine though, as long as your consistent it will do it top notch.

118 to 135 degree
I decided to turn one of my standard 118’s into a 135. Didn’t go so well, I started sharpening and I got that classic ~zzzZZZzzz zz~ wrong way instead of ~zzzZZZzzz~ right way. Tried every thing and could not figure it out. I followed the instructions as detailed. Then I started fiddling with the relief angles and MTO to see if that was the problem, it wasn’t. It wanted to grind a flat spot on the heel (the bit still worked but it looked odd), I suspect the alignment is off, or that’s just the way it does 135. If I can’t figure it out I take it back and get another to see…

The split point (118)
This was not designed to make a split point like we are accustomed to. For one as stated in the instructions it will grind WAY, WAY too much of the flute away behind the heel. This makes it impossible for the alignment tabs to position it for the selected chisel/relief angle to re sharpen after the first time on the doc. I again started fiddling with the chisel/relief angle and found it works best if you set it + 118 (the first or second notch pass 118) this is after you sharpen but it says you don’t have to. It looks nothing like the split point you find on bits in stores, this I believe is because they are done on a machine with a much larger grinding wheel at a more aggressive angle (probly a real darex or equivalent). That part of the Drill doc 750x needs to be fixed BAD!!!

Factory 135 degree split point
It splits 118 sort of ok (above) but since I could not get it do 118 to 135 quite right I tried a factory 135 split point. Seems it grinds a flat spot on the heel where the split is to go (on a factory 118). SOOOOooooo when I re-sharpened an almost new 135 split it worked vary well!!! And the spilt was nice and looked like a factory split (sort of). But I kept going to see about many sharpenings and found the aligning tabs will not grab the fluts as the land was thinned too far back when I went back to sharpen it the chisel angle was way negative. I MUCH, MUCH prefer the alignment of the 350x because it aligns the bits based on the cutting edge side of the flute witch DOSE NOT CHANGE.

Masonry bits. It dose as advertised. Not much to say really follow the instructions and sharpen away. Works nice on all of them up to it’s max chuck size.

There is no question is needs some real life customer feed back and hands on modifications.

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This entry was posted on Wednesday, April 11th, 2007 at 4:59 am and is filed under Health News. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.